Andy Burnham’s wardrobe could face its toughest test yet as the Labour leader heads toward Downing Street and Westminster’s dress codes.
Andy Burnham’s wardrobe is now part of the political story as his path toward Downing Street gets closer. The Labour leader may be facing questions about the cost of living, the war in Ukraine and defence funding, but he may also have to decide whether his trademark casual style can survive the rules of No 10 and Westminster.
Burnham, the MP for Makerfield, has long been seen in what commentators call his “Manchester clothes” — dark T-shirts, trousers, trainers and other relaxed staples. But on a recent trip from Manchester to London, he changed clothes along the way, boarding at Manchester Piccadilly in his usual casual look before arriving at London Euston in a suit and then adding a tie for Parliament. That shift raised a simple question: was it a signal that he is preparing for a more formal job, or just a one-off?
Emma Finamore, features editor at Drapers Magazine, described Burnham as “the king of the casuals” and said his style is smart but less formal than that of many politicians. She said the look is aspirational but still within reach for ordinary people. The wardrobe often linked with him includes Harrington jackets, polo shirts from Uniqlo and Wallabees from Clarks, part of a deliberate break from the suit-and-tie culture associated with Westminster.
Still, Burnham has not always dressed this way. Before 2020, he was more often seen in a suit. During his second Labour leadership bid in 2015, he appeared in traditional formal wear beside Jeremy Corbyn, who won that contest while dressing far more casually. After leaving Westminster, Burnham loosened up further. In a 2022 interview with the Guardian, he said he slowly realized he no longer had to dress that way and added that he was not going back.
There are limits to how far that approach can travel. In the House of Commons, the Speaker, Sir Lindsay Hoyle, has made clear that MPs are expected to wear a shirt and tie. Burnham’s style may also not play well in the White House, where Ukrainian President Volodymyr Zelensky’s military-style clothing drew criticism from some Americans and became part of his clash with Donald Trump and JD Vance. Fashion has long carried political meaning in Britain too, from Harold Wilson’s practical look to Margaret Thatcher’s carefully constructed image of authority.
Professor Rob Ford of the University of Manchester said Burnham’s clothing has worked as branding because people notice it. He argued that the goal is to look like a politician who is not cut off from ordinary voters. But he said keeping that image while meeting the expectations of Westminster will be difficult. The lesson is plain: if Burnham wants to keep his political brand intact, he will have to dress the part without looking like just another machine politician.
