Nirmal Purja’s death in the Broad Peak avalanche has sent Nepal into mourning, as tributes pour in for the British-Nepali climber known worldwide for his record-setting ascents and at home for elevating Nepal’s mountaineering legacy. Purja was among 10 climbers killed when an expedition was caught on Pakistan’s Broad Peak last Thursday.
Six of those killed were Nepalese. The other members of the expedition came from the United States, China, Oman and Pakistan. Purja’s death has hit the global climbing world hard, but the reaction in Nepal has been especially intense because he was widely celebrated as one of the country’s most prominent mountaineers and a figure who helped shine a light on Nepalese climbing guides.
Prime Minister Balendra Shah was among those who paid tribute, saying Purja’s “history of courage, dedication and contribution will always remain inspiring.” On Facebook, Purja’s brother Kamal described the loss in personal terms, saying he felt as though he had lost his whole world. He wrote that Purja was not only his younger brother but also his heart, adding that his legacy would live forever.
At Small Heaven School in Chitwan district, near Kathmandu, where Purja once studied, students and staff lit candles in his memory. One student, Sarbagya Paudel, said Purja’s bravery had set an example for the school and brought pride to Nepal. Former school hostel supervisor Shailendra Baral remembered him as a boy who was fearless and committed to achieving something, while a school friend, Bahadur Panta, said people around the world had prayed for him after he went missing.
Purja’s rise made him one of the best-known names in modern climbing. He became internationally famous after completing the climb of the world’s 14 highest peaks in just over six months, a feat that drew global attention and later appeared in a 2021 Netflix documentary. He also served in the British military for 16 years, including 10 in special forces, and received an MBE in 2018 for his achievements in extreme high-altitude mountaineering.
